I wish it hadn't taken me 14 years to try Mr. Max Izakaya in Irving.
As a food journalist, I've covered close to 100 restaurants across the Metroplex in the last two years. But Mr. Max was always on my radar, quietly legendary, showing up on every best-of list. It took a call from Visit Irving and the electricity of the World Cup to finally get me through the door.
My first slurp of their rich, porky tonkotsu ramen curled my toes — deep pork flavor, springy noodles, the kind of bowl that took me straight back to Japan. The sashimi, as fresh as it gets, was cut by hand from whole fish just minutes before I ate it. By the time I set down my chopsticks, I was already mapping out my return — and with thousands of Japanese fans flooding Irving to cheer for their home country, I have a feeling I won't be the only one discovering Mr. Max for the first time.
Mr. Max Izakaya opened in 1996, making it the original izakaya in North Texas. In Japan, izakayas are as common as corner bars, casual drinking establishments built around small plates, meant to be shared over drinks and good company.
Hare Nakamura founded the restaurant and became as beloved as the place itself. After he passed away in December 2013, the future of Mr. Max was uncertain until the Mons Restaurant Group stepped in, acquired the restaurant, and reopened it in 2015, bringing in Japanese chef Mamoru Tokeshi and 72-year-old chef Akio Hirota to carry the legacy forward.
Walking into Mr. Max feels like reaching a checkpoint. Dim lighting, walls covered in hand-lettered Japanese characters listing the day's menu, it’s the perfect place to unwind after a long day. You can slip off your shoes and sink into a low table, or pull up a seat at the bar and watch the chefs work.
One thing to know before you go: make a reservation. People line up before the doors even open, and after 30 years, Mr. Max is just as packed as ever.
The menu is full of small plates, all pairing perfectly with a cold, foamy Asahi or a glass of fresh sake. You already know how I feel about the ramen and sashimi. But don't sleep on the chicken karaage, crispy and juicy, perfect when dipped in creamy Kewpie mayo. And the takoyaki, served in a piping hot cast iron pan, oozes with a creamy center and chunks of tender octopus. When you lift one out of the pan, the bonito fish flakes curl up from the hot steam like they're alive.
I was lucky enough to get a behind-the-scenes look at how they prepare their food. Whole salmon and tuna broken down with precise, careful cuts, sauces made from scratch, a massive pot of pork bones slowly giving up every bit of flavor for their ramen broth. Mr. Max doesn't do a lot of press. Honestly, they don't need to. This is real Japanese food, prepared without fuss, in a strip mall in Irving. You can only find places like this here.
One thing I can guarantee you: it won't take me 14 years to come back.
$8 for seven perfectly little bites of takoyaki — served in a piping hot cast iron pan, creamy inside with chunks of octopus, topped with bonito flakes that curl up from the steam like they're alive. (Photo: Greg Castillo)
Slip off your shoes and sink into a booth — Mr. Max Izakaya is the kind of place that feels like an exhale the moment you walk in. (Photo: Greg Castillo)
Mr Max Izakaya Restaurant
3028 N Belt Line Rd, Irving, TX 75062
(972) 255-8889
mrmaxtx.com
